Saturday, July 28th
Beijing, China
This morning we headed over to Tiananmen Square again to see Chairman Mao Memorial Hall in Tiananmen Square. The place was bustling with hordes of people. To get into the Square you have to go through airport-like security minus removing your shoes. We got into the Square without any issues and headed for the Memorial where Mao’s mummified corpse lies. As we approached, we were told by one of the security guards, “no bags,” and he pointed across the street where we saw a sign for locker storage. So we headed back across the street to store our bags. It was slightly chaotic in the storage area, but we stored our bags and were told to take our passports, phones, and money. Of course today was the day neither of us had pockets, so Valerie brilliantly used her camera case as storage but as you’ll see that got us some more scrutiny. I was very nervous about leaving my stuff there but we wanted to see Mao and at least we had the most important stuff in our hands.
So we headed back over to the Square and through security again. There are so many security officers around Tiananmen Square. I was only little during the Cold War period and never traveled to any Communist nation, but this is what I would have imagined it to be like. The weather only added to atmosphere, it was overcast and foggy.
We got into line to see Mao and we were shuffled along by guards every 10 feet, saying something in Chinese. We were the only foreigners that I could see it the line and started to get eerie as we approached the hall. However, we had to go through security one more time and they almost pulled Valerie out of line because of her camera case. She quickly opened it up to show the guard our passports and phones, so we were able to proceed. As we proceeded up the stairs, it got extremely quiet. There were flowers for sale and it felt very much like a funeral procession. When you walk up the steps, there is a statue of Mao and some people paid their respects to Mao and laid flowers in front of the statue. Then you are ushered into the next room, where Mao lays with a red hammer and sickle fIag over him. I have to say it was eeriest thing I have ever experienced. Valerie and I were definitely taken aback by the whole experience, but it was something I had to see. We took a few pictures outside the Memorial and quickly headed back across the street to retrieve our bags.
We decided to head back over to Tiananmen Square again, which meant our fourth security check of the morning and it wasn’t even 10am! We strolled around a little bit and contemplated heading into the Great Hall of the People, where the National People’s Congress meets, but it looked like a fortress as well and I think were both a little shaken (and my guide book was pretty ambivalent about it) so we opted to head directly to the Forbidden City. Being in Tiananmen Square was much like being in a cage. There are only a few ways in and out and you have to be screened every time you enter. I was fascinated to be there with all its history, but was ready to move on to the night sight.
The Forbidden City was okay. I wasn’t as impressed as I thought I would be. I think it was part fatigue and part expectations. Also, I think any site you see after the Great Wall (especially the day after) pales in comparison, especially after the hike we had. I expected it to have some museum like-elements in the main buildings but you could only look into the buildings from the outside and there really wasn’t much to see.
The place was jammed packed with people and any time you got close to a building it was survival of the fittest. There was one building where there crowd in front turned into a mosh pit. It was insane and turned me off from the experience. I don’t even think most of the people even knew what they were looking it!
We spent the rest of the morning walking through and were exhausted. The thrill of the Great Wall hike wore off and the fatigue set in. Fortunately, there was a restaurant nearby on the North Gate so we ate lunch. We were able to have braised eggplant, the same dish we had yesterday after the hike and loved, sprouts and an onion pancake.
Our bodies wanted to take a rest and since our hotel was so close we thought about going back for a nap, but didn’t do it. We had to see more of the city. You’ll never know when or if you’ll ever be back, so we headed to the Temple of Heaven Park.
Beijing, China
This morning we headed over to Tiananmen Square again to see Chairman Mao Memorial Hall in Tiananmen Square. The place was bustling with hordes of people. To get into the Square you have to go through airport-like security minus removing your shoes. We got into the Square without any issues and headed for the Memorial where Mao’s mummified corpse lies. As we approached, we were told by one of the security guards, “no bags,” and he pointed across the street where we saw a sign for locker storage. So we headed back across the street to store our bags. It was slightly chaotic in the storage area, but we stored our bags and were told to take our passports, phones, and money. Of course today was the day neither of us had pockets, so Valerie brilliantly used her camera case as storage but as you’ll see that got us some more scrutiny. I was very nervous about leaving my stuff there but we wanted to see Mao and at least we had the most important stuff in our hands.
So we headed back over to the Square and through security again. There are so many security officers around Tiananmen Square. I was only little during the Cold War period and never traveled to any Communist nation, but this is what I would have imagined it to be like. The weather only added to atmosphere, it was overcast and foggy.
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| Mao Zedong Memorial Hall |
We decided to head back over to Tiananmen Square again, which meant our fourth security check of the morning and it wasn’t even 10am! We strolled around a little bit and contemplated heading into the Great Hall of the People, where the National People’s Congress meets, but it looked like a fortress as well and I think were both a little shaken (and my guide book was pretty ambivalent about it) so we opted to head directly to the Forbidden City. Being in Tiananmen Square was much like being in a cage. There are only a few ways in and out and you have to be screened every time you enter. I was fascinated to be there with all its history, but was ready to move on to the night sight.
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| Great Hall of the People |
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| Braised eggplant |
Our bodies wanted to take a rest and since our hotel was so close we thought about going back for a nap, but didn’t do it. We had to see more of the city. You’ll never know when or if you’ll ever be back, so we headed to the Temple of Heaven Park.
The park houses the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests among many other ritual sites for the emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasties. Part of the reason we went there is because Valerie had read about a calligrapher who paints on the walkways in the park. As I mentioned earlier, we were pretty tired, so we sat down on a bench to rest for a few minutes and fell asleep! I have never in my life fallen asleep on a park bench before today. I woke up after a 20 minute snooze to a girl scurrying away from us with her camera. It seems as though she got a picture of the two tired Americans asleep on the bench. I am sure there are several Beijingers (I think I just made up a word) who have our picture as well! I didn’t feel weird or out of place sleeping on the bench, because as we walked through the rest of the park, we saw people sprawled out on benches taking naps.
We walked around the park for almost 3 hours minus our 20 minute nap looking for the calligraphy man. The park is that big. Think Central Park but not as well kept. We finally found him at the South Gate, but he was doing calligraphy with water that he was shooting through a syringe. He saw us among the crowd and instead of writing calligraphy wrote, “Hello USA.” It was cute. I guess sometimes he does it with a big paint brush and other times water. Either way, he is talented.
Fortunately, we were able to find a cab to our hotel after several tries. Many of the cab drivers here refuse to the use the meter even when you ask them. They try to tell you it’s a flat rate to wherever you are going, but if you use the meter it is usually 3 times less than the amount they have told you. It’s ridiculous, but obviously it works some times otherwise they wouldn’t do it.
Tonight our whole travel group, Valerie, Claudia, Carol-Anne, Jennifer and I had dinner at Quanduje Roast Duck Restaurant that was recommended by a friend and our guide books. The restaurant was established in 1864 and is considered the best in China. I was looking forward to having Peking duck in Beijing and comparing it with Peking Duck in Falls Church, VA and the one I had in Taipei. Quanduje was good, but I have to say I enjoy the duck in Falls Church and Taipei better.
Tomorrow it’s off to the Summer Palace!
